Everyone likes a good DIY project. But if you’re going to put in all that time and effort, you might as well make sure it looks good. A kitchen table refinish is no exception. Here’s 10 things I learned along the way that I wish I had known before I started. Check it out.

So, this kitchen table originally belonged to my grandma. My sister used it for 11 years and finally it got passed on to me. Refinishing a table is much cheaper than buying a brand new one so I knew I was up for the task. However, there were a few mistakes that I make along the way. Here’s what I wish I would have known before my kitchen table refinish.

#1: A kitchen table refinish is a marathon not a sprint

If you think you’re going to have this simple project done over the weekend. Think again. If you want it done right, it’s going to take a while. Several layers of sanding, three layers of paint, staining and three layers of polyurethane. Yep. That’s what it is going to take. But if you’ve accepted that from the beginning, you are less likely to cut corners and end up with a less-than appealing end result.

#2: Use an electric sander

Your paint and your stain won’t adhere to the table unless you sand off all of the finish. This takes time and if you’re doing it by hand, you might go crazy. Spend 50 bucks and invest in an electric sander. You will thank me later. I like the Ryobi Orbit Sander. It’s easy to hold and include a dust bag as well. But really any electric sander will do.

I started with a sandpaper with 80 grit to remove the finish. Then 180 grit to prepare the surface and finally a 320 grit to complete the finish. You can also sand parts of the table that don’t have a flat surface by hand.

#3: Sand in between layers

I know. It sounds weird. But when you light sand each paint layer with a really fine sandpaper, it removes the stroke marks from the paint brush and gives it a really professional, clean look.

#4: Don’t aim for perfection

You’re most likely not doing this DIY project to sell in a professional furniture store. If it’s just going in your kitchen, don’t stress if it’s not perfect. You might have a paint glob here or there or a stroke marks. I figure it just adds character.

#5: Layers, layers, layers

I mentioned this earlier, but the more layers you can add, the better, especially the polyurethane. A kitchen table is the most highly-used piece of furniture in your hope. If you skimp on the layers, you’re going to get knicks right away and it’s going to look kind of crappy.

#6: Choose a dark stain

If you’re looking for a dark stain, just remember it always turns out lighter than you think. I originally used a dark walnut on the top of the table and chairs. It definitely was too light. I end up using the darkest stain I could find which was Varathane ebony wood stain. Then I was able to achieve the look I was hoping for.

#7: Apply a spray polyurethane

They have come a long way with polyurethanes. Save yourself a lot of time and spray the polyurethane on all the surfaces that aren’t flat. I used Varathane Ultimate Spray Polyurethane. Make sure you apply at least three layers of polyurethane. This is what is going to make your table last through the years without any chips or dings. Trust me. It is worth the time, effort and money. Plus, it will make a smoother finish.

#8: Carefully consider oil-based vs. water-based

The jury is still out whether oil-based stains and polyurethanes or water-based is the way to go. I used oil-based because it penetrates the wood and looks better years down the road. According to stormsystem.com, here’s some pros and cons to consider:

Water based stain advantages:

• Dry quickly
• Keep its color for a longer period of time
• Provides a richer hue of color
• No harmful odor or fumes, not flammable
• Breathable stain
• Easier cleanup
• Extremely mildew and mold resistant

Oil-based stain advantages:

• Requires more time to dry which allows for a more even finish
• Penetrates wood deeper
• Extremely durable
• Thicker seal for wood
• Less long-term maintenance

#9: Wait until completely dry

After one day, you might think your finish is completely dry, but think again. You’ll wait to hold off on sitting at and using your table until at least three days. Unless you don’t mind Levi marks forever left on the seats of your chairs.

#10: A plastic table cloth is your friend

After you’ve slaved away for days and days on your table, the last thing you want is for your five-year-old to carve a tic-tac-toe game into your beautiful finish. Yes, that did happen to me. Placing a simple plastic table cloth over your table will provide a simple protection to keep your table looking as good as the day your finished it. I bought an Elaine Karen Clear Tablecloth on Amazon for less than $9 and it is perfect.

What other ideas do you have to make your kitchen table refinish a success? Leave your comments below.

Related link: Step-by-step dresser makeover for $20

The post 10 things I wish I knew before my kitchen table refinish appeared first on My Silly Squirts.

Do you have an old dresser hanging around your house? Well, it’s time for a dresser makeover that’s affordable and absolutely gorgeous. People will think you paid hundreds for it. So, let’s get started!

We all love a good DIY project, especially when you save money in the process. And a dresser makeover doesn’t have to be complicated. There’s plenty of ways to do it: with chalk, without sanding, sealant, stain, and the list goes on. But my affordable step-by-step project with only take a few days and leave you with a professional look that is durable and long-lasting. Here we go!

Gather your dresser makeover supplies

If you’re going to start a big project, you might as well do it right the first time. Don’t cut corners and you’ll end up with a beautiful piece of refinished furniture. So, start with the list of supplies:

• Old dresser (the uglier the better, haha)
• Gallon of paint and primer in one (color of your choice)
• Power sander (a must for DIY projects)
• Paint supplies (brushes, tray, roller)
• Minwax polyurethane (don’t buy generic brand, it will yellow with time)
• Wood stain (buy in the can or the cloths)
• Dresser knobs (more affordable on Amazon compared to Home Depot)
• Contact paper and Modge Podge hard coat (optional)

Hopefully, you already have some of these supplies on hand like I did. The only thing I had to buy was the wood stain, polyurethane and brushes. The dresser was even free. I left the hardware store spending an even $20!

Repair the dresser (if needed)

Our old dresser was in my boy’s room, so it was thrashed. My husband graciously repaired the drawers which were pulling apart. Just a couple of hits with the nail gun and it was ready to go.

Sand your dresser

Sanding is a must. If you skip this step, your paint won’t adhere to the furniture as well. It just won’t look professional. You want to start with a clean, beautiful surface. If you have mostly straight edges and a power sander, it won’t take too long. I recommend a medium grit sand paper such as #120 or #150 to avoid damaging the fine wood finish. Then, simply wipe away the excess dust.

Paint two coats

I like to use paint with primer in it already. Using a high-density mini roller, apply one coat and let it dry completely. Then apply another coat. If you’re really ambitious, apply a third coat. It sounds excessive, but it will make a huge difference. Plus, your high-density roller won’t leave any seams or link marks. It will look smooth as silk.

Apply two coats of polyurethane

You are going to be tempted to skip this step. Don’t! I made that mistake on another DIY project and the paint started to scrape off almost immediately. The polyurethane provides a strong, scratch-resistant cover. Wait 24 hours after each coat to allow it to completely dry and then lightly sand using a fine grit sandpaper in between each coat.

Stain and seal top of dresser

Now, get an old rag and wipe on wood stain of your choice. Make sure you spread on the stain in with the grain of the wood. Wait 5-15 minutes and wipe off the excess stain. I did three layers of wood stain. You can apply as many layers as you want. It just depends on the look you’re wanting. Then, apply three layers of polyurethane, sanding lightly between each layer. Don’t skip these steps!

Apply contact paper and glue to drawers

Contact paper isn’t required, but it adds a beautiful touch. You’ve already made your dresser makeover look so good. This will make it look even better. Measure the sides of your drawers, cut the contact paper to size and apply the contact paper. It is sticky on one side. Smooth out the bubbles and then apply two layers of Modge Podge. I like to use the hard coat which is meant for furniture.

You may want to apply the Modge Podge directly to the drawer before you apply the contact paper and then apply a layer directly on top of the Modge Podge.

I also applied the contact paper to the inside of each of the drawers. But you don’t have to.

Add new hardware

You’re almost done with your dresser makeover! Just put the knobs on the drawers. Hardware can be expensive. I bought mine at Home Depot but I wished I would have bought these cute crystal knobs on Amazon. They are cheaper and cuter.

Overall, I am SOOOOOO excited about how my dresser makeover turned out. I started this project on a Saturday and finished the following Wednesday. The important part about refinishing furniture is to not cut corners. Sometimes it’s easier to do one less coat of paint or sealant, but don’t do it! You’ll be so much happier with the end result.

What tips do you have for refinishing furniture? Leave your comments below.

Related link: How to refinish a rocking chair

The post Gorgeous step-by-step dresser makeover for $20 appeared first on My Silly Squirts.